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Mon
10
May '10
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Day 1: Nick and I started on Green Drag-on. I led the first pitch. It is a pretty straight-forward pitch. There was a place that would take a #2 and I didn’t bring. I took the chance to use a sketchy flake and placed a small Metolius offset. Not to my surprise it failed bounce test. Then I tagged a few big cams. In order to keep the ropes free of tangling, we continued on Town Crier and the other party went on the 2nd pitch of Green Drag-on.
Day 2: we jugged the first two pitched we led the previous day and started on pitch 3. Nick has done this pitch before so it’s my turn. It’s a fun and short pitch. It goes up and left from the belay station reaching a roof. A few steps of traverse brings you to a fixed piton. Then I’d be lowered and do a pendulum to a thin crack on the left. I sticked a cam hook into the crack and made a couple cam hook moves. When I saw a chance to put in a brassie, I did. However it pulled through after I committed and I was now on the piton again. I had to do the pendulum once again. This time I wasn’t so lucky, the cam hook just doesn’t want to stick in. I had to grab Takeo’s arm. We joked about it. It’s aid climbing :). The thin vertical crack goes to another piton under a roof. Getting over the roof is quite awkward. Once over it, there is a couple of bolts for the anchor. Nick then led the next pitch, which is a zig-zaggy pitch with lots of pitons and bolts. Following is quite strenuous. We rapped from the top of this pitch and called it a day.