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Mon
26
Apr '10
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I was helping with Stephen McKim’s intermediate mentor group the last weekend. We went to Castle Rock on Saturday and Icicle Buttress on Sunday. It was mainly an instructional activity for me but here is the log nevertheless.
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Followed Sabre both pitches
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Followed Sabre P1 and led P2
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Chicken Gully/Cave Route, led pithces 2, 4, and 5. P1 is a mossy and shady friction slab, pretty ugly, 5.3ish, I’d say. P2 is a scramble, placed 0 pieces. P3 ends at a pine tree with some old rap slings. The ledge is huge. Don’t quite remember how the route is like since I ran up too fast and was out of breath. Move to the left above a hig boulder facing a crack to begin P4. Placed a couple cams (in the range of Metolius #5-#8) in the crack. P4 ends in the cave. P5 is the crux. Out of the cave, traverse to the right, follow a series of undercling crack to a bush. I awkwardedly slung the brach then stepped on it to gain access to the ledge above it. It’s probably a 5.5 or 5.6 move. The rest is a scramble and rope drag is a big problem.